we are here today with our model basia! she has come in with an inspiration photo of her DREAM HAIR and we are going to help her get this look!
when attempting to recreate this color, you want to stay within the realms of hair colors that people are born with if you want it to have a NATURAL LOOKING FINISH.
typically most women over the age of 35, we like to color her hair and we don't always know why. want to know why?
when you're born, you're born with all three pigments in your hair, you have blue, red, and yellow.
as we age, we start to lose some of that PIGMENT. and then eventually we go, grey. it’s a slow grading process that happens naturally over the years - and we want to counteract it.
so what i wanted to do is break up all of the dark currently in her hair by using lightner.
WARMTH is actually really beautiful and these ARTIFICIAL GOLDS in basia’s hair are really gorgeous. it's a natural gold that we see in our hair that goes brassy that we really don't like. so what i wanted to do was lightning a little past that yellow color, but then tone it with a gold.
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choosing the COLOR PALETTE
many clients like the idea of not being exactly the same color all the way through. you want to have three different colors in the hair to provide that balance and difference in hue they are looking for.
by using three colors and staggering the color application, you can create a SOFT MELT into the lighter ends. without staggering the colors, you can end with a dip dye look - which is not what we are going for.
basia will have THREE DIFFERENT COLORS - the current color of her lower section of hair, her root color and then the lighter piece that i will be applying.
sometimes i do put four colors into the hair, but that's very rare for me. adding too many colors can make the hair look very ‘busy’.
handling the split ends
the first thing to do is the split end test to see how far has the splits traveled.
if you hold your hair up into the light, and the bottoms are see-through - that's all split ends. it's dead hair.
hair has three layers:
- cuticle: the outside layer
- cortex - the middle
- medulla - the inside layer.
once the CUTICLE starts to split, it peels away and there's no protection to the inner layers.
what starts to happen is the cortex is exposed and can easily be damaged. the reason why it's all see-through is because the internal structure is now compromised. it can no longer even hold pigment.
split ends will continue to travel all the way up the shaft until you CUT THEM OFF.
for our client today - she has naturally textured hair, and the last haircut that she got, they used a razor.
personally, i would never use a razor on curly hair. if you're going to use razors for cutting hair, the hair has to be sopping wet so that you have a nice glide down the hair. her hair was a little bit on the drier side.
when the stylists dip their swooping potion, it made these ends really kick out and they damage them quite a bit.
she's such beautiful bone structure and i find oftentimes that the hair on the face is left way too long, and doesn’t compliment the face.
when she styles her hair, your eyes are going to be dragged all the way down here. so what i want to do is cut these layers open so that it OPENS UP her face.
PROTIP: you always want to cut down the middle. otherwise let's say, if i cut it to the right, when i flip it over to the left it's going to hang really long.
BONUS PROTIP: always have your clients uncross their legs to ensure they are sitting straight. this will ensure an even haircut.
the last person that cut her hair, cut it quite short on the left side, you can see how much shorter it is on the left than the rest.
so, this is going to dictate the length that we're going to have.
i will do a blunt cut using that short section as a GUIDE and then move onto coloring. we will shape the haircut after the color is complete!
color the ROOTS
so the first thing we're going to do is start with putting 6.3 on the roots.
i'm going to pull it down a little bit farther because you can see that a little bit of her greys poking through.
PROTIP: using less DEVELOPER when coloring greys will increase the pigment in the end.
so i've mixed her color. one to one, i've put 6.3 with 20 ball. this is going to give it a little bit more pigment to make sure that it's her grays are FULLY COVERED
you can see, i've gone ahead and put her root color everywhere and then sectioned her hair off into four quadrants.
MELTING in the blonde
i've already got the first one completed. lets take a look at the process on this second quadrant.
along the bottom, i'm going to do a fine weave. i want her hairline to be very SOFT and BLENDED.
moving up the sections, i'm going to STAGGER the amount of blonde that i slice in there.
i'm going to take HORIZONTAL SECTIONS and at the root i'm going to back comb a little bit. that's going to to help to diffuse the line, to soften the gradient from dark to light.
now, with each of these slices, i'm going to VARY the amount of BLONDE that's in there. so for one of them, i'm going to put just a little bit, the next one, i put a medium height and then the next foil, i'm going to bring it up quite high almost to the root.
BRIGHTENING the face
now that i'm done the back, i'm going to move to the sides. i'm going to do a very similar foil pattern, except i'm going to put MORE WEAVES throughout.
i will begin to follow a new pattern of three slices to one weave. so i'm going to feather on the LIGHTENER in the same way, by staggering, a little bit amount of blonde, a lot of lightener, and then a lot of blonde.
then, i'm going to put in a FINE WEAVE.
i'm going to continue this pattern all the way up the section
for the foils above her pridal ridge, i'm going to throw in a back to back foil. that's a foil on top of a foil with no space in between.
that's going to do is break up any harsh lines and it's going to give a really DIFFUSED FINISH.
continue the same foiling pattern on the other side of her front quadrant.
if you’d like a more DETAILED WALKTHROUGH check out the video on our youtube channel! (Link video)
adding THICKNESS with proper cut
now i'm going to cut her hair.
i've done a demonstration of this cut before, so i highly recommend you check out that video! - haircut for thin hair to look THICKER
applying the TONER
i have mixed the toner pretty much ONE TO ONE.
i made a demi of one third 9.8 to cut a little bit of this warmth. but i do want a little bit of it to come through. so i have one third 9.8, and two thirds 9N mixed together.
SEALING the color with natural products
i'm going to put in some ‘replenish’. this work beautifully for sealing your cuticle. so it'll make your colors really SHINE.
i'm going to be spray nvenn’s ‘fix’ into the hair. i finish 9 out of 10 clients with this product. it is the best to achieve WEIGHTLESS BODY
one final pass over the hair with the scissors to add some texture and SOFTEN any ledges that may be there.
then i added in a few curls to show the DIMENSION of this color.
and here’s the FINAL LOOK!
that's it for today guys!
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