we are here today with our model, basia! she has come in with an inspiration photo of her DREAM HAIR and we are going to help her get “this look”! we are going to customize it a bit though to help her mask her grey hair as it grows in.
when attempting to recreate this color with a NATURAL LOOKING FINISH, you will want to choose a “finished color/ tone” within the realms of hair colors that people are naturally born with.
for example, there is a clear difference between a natural looking red head and a fashion toned red head. the same is true for blondes.
its common for people to FEEL YOUNGER after they color their hair but they don’t always know why. obviously part of that reason is because their greys are covered, BUT there’s more to it!
HERE’S WHY -> when you're born, you're born with all three primary pigments in your hair (blue, red and yellow). as we age, we start to lose some of that PIGMENT (until it eventually turns grey). for most people, this is a slow process that happens naturally over years.
for basia’s hair, i’ve decided that i want to break up all of the dark in her hair by using a lightener. for the final tone, i’m going to go with a golden blonde.
WARMTH is always brassy (as most people may think). ARTIFICIAL GOLDS are actually BEAUTIFUL! it’s the warm tones that remain after a lightning service that we find brassy!
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choosing the COLOR PALETTE
many clients like the idea of not being exactly the same color all the way through. you can have multiple tones on one head of hair but i would suggest you have no more than 3 different colors in their hair.
PRO TIP: there are clearly exceptions to every rule but for the most part, 3 different colors or tones in someone’s hair is plenty. using 4 or more colors usually only looks good on people that have either super long hair or a crazy amount of hair. too many colors could run you the risk of it looking like it might need a color correction afterwards → it might look TOO BUSY.
three colors gives you the ability to create a SOFT MELT.
basia’s THREE DIFFERENT COLORS = the current color of the lower section of her hair, her root shade and thena lighter golden blonde.
handling the split ends
the first thing to do is the split end test to see how far has the splits traveled.
if you hold your hair up into the light, and the bottoms are see-through - that's all split ends. it's dead hair.
hair has three layers:
- cuticle: the outside layer
- cortex - the middle
- medulla - the inside layer.
once the CUTICLE starts to split, it peels away and there's no protection to the inner layers.
split ends will continue to travel all the way up the shaft until you CUT THEM OFF.
for our client today - she has naturally textured hair, and the last haircut that she got, they used a razor.
personally, i would never use a razor on curly hair because razors slightly fray your ends. our curly haired clients are already fighting frizz, we don’t need to add to that by using a razor to cut their hair.
PRO TIP: if you're going to use razors for cutting hair, the hair has to be SOPPING WET so that the razor can easily glide down the hair.
i can tell that basia’s hair was on the drier side when they razored it.
cutting her hair dry really AMPLIFIED how compromised her hair actually was.
PRO TIP: it’s always nice to open up your clients faces! i find that often, stylists leave the hair around people’s faces WAY TO LONG! our eyes will follow the lines that we see. the GOAL is to drawn other’s attention UP TO THEIR EYES! you can do this by opening up the face with some layers.
PROTIP: you always want to cut down the middle if they like to switch up their part.
ALWAYS have your clients uncross their legs to ensure they are sitting straight. this will ensure an even haircut.
the last person that cut her hair, cut it quite short on the left side, you can see how much shorter it is on the left than on the right.
the left side is going to dictate the final length that she will have.
i’m going to color her hair first but before i start, i’m going to cut off all the extra length that we won’t need. i'm going to use the shortest piece as my guide. i will finish the haircut after the color is complete!
color the ROOTS
i’m going to start by putting 6.3 on the roots.
PRO TIP: make sure to pull their root color down far enough to cover all their greys!
PROTIP: using a higher DEVELOPER will help with RESISTANT greys!
i’m using 6.3 with 20 vol for her root color.
you can see, i've gone ahead and put her root color everywhere and then sectioned her hair off into four quadrants.
MELTING in the blonde
i've already got the first quadrant completed. let's take a look at the process on this second quadrant.
along the bottom, i'm going to do a fine weave. i want her hairline to be very SOFT and BLENDED.
i will transition to slices as i move up the section. i'm going to STAGGER the amount of blonde that i slice in there.
i'm going to take HORIZONTAL SECTIONS and back comb the root a little bit. that's going to help to diffuse the melt from dark to light.
i'm going to VARY the amount of BLONDE from slice to slice. you can watch the video for a demonstration.
BRIGHTENING the face
now that i'm done the back, i'm going to move onto the sides. i'm going to do a similar foil pattern, except i'll add in some WEAVES throughout.
i will begin to follow a new pattern of three slices to one weave.
i'm going to feather on the LIGHTENER in the same way; by staggering the amount of blonde on each strand.
after 3 slices, i'm going to put in a FINE WEAVE.
i'm going to continue this pattern all the way up the section
for the foils above her pridal ridge, i'm going to throw in a back to back foil; that's a foil on top of a foil with no space in between.
the top foil of the 2 will be a fine weave. this will break up any harsh lines and give it a DIFFUSED FINISH.
continue the same foiling pattern on the other side of her front quadrant. after this is done, i will wash it and cut it before i tone it.
if you’d like a more DETAILED WALKTHROUGH check out the video on our youtube channel!
make the hair look THICKER with proper cut
now i'm going to cut her hair.
i've done a demonstration of this cut before, so i highly recommend you check out that video! - haircut for thin hair to look THICKER
applying the TONER
i have mixed the toner ONE TO ONE (1:1).
i mixed a demi color- ⅓ 9.8 + ⅔ 9N in j beverly hills color + 2T (j beverly hills semi/ demi developer)
SEALING the color with natural products
i'm going to put in some ‘replenish’. this works beautifully for sealing your cuticle. so it'll make your colors really SHINE.
nvenn’s ‘replenish’ is an AMAZING OIL that FILLS in the cracks and crevices of the hair. it SMOOTHS OUT the hair and FINISHES your hair with LUSTER AND SHINE. perfect for any curly hair style!
next, i'm going to layer in nvenn’s ‘fix’ into her hair. i finish 9 out of 10 clients with this product! it is the BEST for finishing the hair with WEIGHTLESS BODY. this will give you the same body that you would normally get on “DAY 2” of your style. it is scented with SWEET ORANGE to give your hair a citrusy clean finish!
one final pass over the hair with the texture shears to SOFTEN any blunt edges that there may be.
curls will really show off the DIMENSIONS of this color.
and here’s the FINAL LOOK!
that's it for today guys!
i hope you enjoyed this blog. our aim is always to teach you something; whether it be about yourself, your business, or your craft. make sure to subscribe to our youtube channel, so that you’re notified whenever our posts go LIVE!
go out there and change the world through hair and beauty!