beauty strategy: GENTLE way to make black hair a little LIGHTER

hello, everyone! welcome to another hair tutorial. today, and we'll be showing you how to GENTLY lighten BLACK VIOLET hair! mani (my client/ model) only wants to go a few shades lighter but it's more complicated than it looks.

LET’S GET STARTED! because of quarantine, mani’s hair has grown out quite a bit. since, there is so much regrowth, there is a GENTLER way that we will be taking her lighter. 

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here is how her hair looks before. you can see there's a little bit of gray here, not much. 

i am going to use this gray as a GUIDE to show us where her REGROWTH has grown out to. 

we put violet on her ends months ago, and that's gonna need to be LIFTED OUT.

here i have her root color applied and now i have her sectioned into a PIE-SHAPED sectioning pattern. 

it is composed of 5 equal sections around the head. when you look at it from above - you should see that PERFECT PIE SHAPE. 

i have the front half of her hair divided into three sections; two down the sides and one in the center. the back of the hair was split into two EVEN SECTIONS.

i'm going to put in a full head of FOILS to lift out the dark. 

i do want some of her “original color” to come through because it's going to ANCHOR it from the color fading and being really brassy. 

PRO TIP: the UNDERLYING PIGMENT of “brown hair” is some form of red/ orange/ combination of red orange. because her DESIRED final color is still in the dark family of colors, a heavy set of foils would lift out enough of the black violet to give her the color that she wants. Another upside, as her hair fades, the black violet will remain the same. it’ll help to SOFTEN ANY BRASSINESS that may come through as it is fading

i'm going to start in the quadrant on the back left side. i started at the bottom of this section and used DIAGONAL BACK SLICES all the way up to the top.

i kept a THIN section in between each SLICE of lightener to ensure the new color was diffused.

FEATHER the lightener on to MELT the lightener into the root color

PRO TIP: be sure to SATURATE each section fully with the lightener. you want all of the hair to life to the same level.

you can see how her hair is LIFTED. this is perfect! 

i wanted to lift it a little bit past LEVEL 6 to remove any of the really strong red-orange pigment that was there. that being said, you want to make sure that there is enough PIGMENT left to really ANCHOR in her final color. over lightened hair will look translucent, opaque or muddy.

to learn more about colors and why your colors might look unsaturated or muddy. check out our law of color video. in that video, you'll learn everything you need to know about colors and how to PROPERLY FORMULATE them. 

applying the color

here is her hair with the lightener rinsed out and a light POWER DRY. as horrendous as this color looks right now, it's actually perfect! 

again, the goal was to lift it JUST passed a level 6 to remove any of the really strong red pigments that would remain.

i am going to drop a little bit of ash in her toner to NEUTRALIZE any excessive warmth, but we do want a warmer result in the end. 

in my bowl, i have 6.8 from j beverly hills with 5g’s of blue pigment.

that little bit of blue is going to help to NEUTRALIZE any of the overwhelming, BRASSY ORANGE that's in her hair here.

i mixed about 40 grams of color with 5 grams of blue additive. i'm mixing it ONE to ONE so that we the final color it nice and “OPAQUE”.

i then applied that color to her whole head.

after it finished processing, we washed out the remaining color and were left with this GORGEOUS color!

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see you next week. bye!

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