hey guys. so we're here with dr natasha iyer. before, we've cut her CURLY haircut with layers. now we can see how long her hair has grown, but the problem that she's facing is that it's not really holding the SHAPE very well now when she's wearing it curly. she wants the flexibility to really just ‘go curl’ and not have to worry about it. essentially, wash and wear.
dr iyer has a very active lifestyle. you guys got to check her out. she's making big waves in the medical space. she is an md who knows all about anti aging and she does very, very well in that space. her clinic better, is open in the calgary area.
when looking at her hair, it is very DAMAGED. on the bottom here, we can see that there's a lot of kind of texture in there and that's actually not the best for curl. so what we're gonna do is take a little bit off the ends. while this trim will cut off the ends and and make her hair HEALTHY, we're mainly cutting it so that it can be worn curly.
so, we're going to be leaving more of the WEIGHT in there. we're not taking out as much texture because the weight is going to help the curl form very nicely. we're actually going to be giving it a little bit more body and VOLUME around the back.
to get a good SHAPE, we're going to keep it a little bit longer around the front. we're going to be doing triangle layers so that it's not very round around the face.
here i have natasha’s hair STRAIGHTENED. i'm going to cut it straight first to ensure that all the hair is even. then, once the hair is styled curled, i might do a little bit of ‘hedge cutting’ just to cut the curls when it's already in shape. so, let’s get started!
cutting the PERIMETER
we're going to start with the hair straight and we're going to cut the PERIMETER. i'm using my comb to gently hold the hair in place so that i can cut the line into the hair. this allows you to not put TENSION on the hair while you're cutting it.
i'm focusing on cutting off the very textured ends that have BREAKAGE, and texture from when her hair was last cut. again, we want to avoid having a lot of texture cause these FRIZZY ends are what's going to cause a curl to not sit properly.
i'm going to get dr iyer to turn her head all the way to the right and this is going to allow me to cut the side the same length as the back. turning her head like this ensures that its not LONGER in the front.
then i'm going to get her to turn her head all the way to the left so that we can again cut a straight line so that her length on the front left is the same length.
next, i’m going to point cut into the edges so that they're a little bit SOFTER rather than having a blunt cut right on the bottom. with curls, we want to keep the weight so that the curls sit well, but giving it a little bit of softness on the ends will keep it from getting blocky.
now we're going to begin to layer the hair and we're only leaving the hair that's from the O BONE and up. i'm using the length at the old bone as a bottom length GUIDE, then cutting the layers according to the length that i want to see. so at the very top of the section, that's going to be the shortest layer, so i know that that's going to be the shortest layer and then it's going to connect to the o bone.and then to the lengths at the nape.
i am pulling the hair STRAIGHT out from the head and you want to keep good tension in the hair as you're pulling it out to cut it. what i'm doing is i'm going to drop the hair down just so you can see what i'm actually cutting. otherwise you'd want to hold the hair quite TAUT.
i'm working my way from the center back of the head, to the front on one side. OVER DIRECTING sections towards the previous section is going to allow for us to keep length in the front of the face. we are going to stop at the ears.
then we're go back again to the center back and work our way forward to the other side up into the ear.
i am continuously CROSSCHECKING the haircut as i'm cutting it. what i'm doing is i'm pulling strands of hair from both the left and the right side, pulling it straight back to make sure that they're even, it is much easier to cross check throughout the haircut to make sure that you are even on both sides so that you don't have to go back and RECUT things after you've already finished them.
here, i am using a POINT CUTTING technique again. we do want to remove the over texturizing and the breakage in the hair, but still SOFTEN all the edges so that we don't have very blunt lines.
moving onto the sections in front of the ear.start with the section right above the year and pulling everything all the way BACK to the previously cut section. we're going to use the length in the back as a guide.
over directing the hair back like this is going to give us maximum amount of the LENGTH around the fron. This will also give us a very nice TRIANGLE layer shape from the center back all the way to the front.
work on one side, complete that and then move onto the other side.
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completing the SHAPE
now on the top of the head, we are going to cross check just to make sure there's no hairs out of place. so we're going to pull the hair up on both sides and just make sure we don't see any hairs that don't belong. if we do, we're just going to tweak those to make sure that the hair is EVEN on both sides.
we see a nice GRADUATION of lengths from the back of the head to the front and those are triangle layers.
now we're going to go through the hair underneath the o bone, making sure that there's no CORNERS in the hair. a ‘corner’ happens when the bottom section matches up with the top section. so i'm going to point cut into here taking out any corners. this is going to provide a little bit of texture so that we still keep the fullness of the haircut, but it's not very BLOCKY on the end.
lastly, we are going to get natasha to tilt forward and tilt her head DOWN. that's going to expose any hairs that might still be loose that need to be cut, and i'm going to make sure that everything is clean underneath.
it's very important to get your clients to do this, to make sure that you get all the STRAY HAIRS and nothing is peaking out when they move their head around.
here's the haircut so you can see how it looks. if it was going to be worn straight, i would be putting more texture into it so you don't see any HEAVINESS, but because the haircut is worn currently, i do want the heaviness and fullness because this is gonna look very good. style and curly.
natasha is now all cut and WASHED. we can see how nice her curls are sitting now.
we’re getting that really nice shape in the back where we're getting the volume in the BODY and then in the front it's not super round because we kept those layers around the face a little bit longer.
natasha was mentioning she loves these little RINGLETS on the bottom. that's why it's important to have a healthy end. get that damaged stuff off and keep a little bit of that weight in the hair. we're not going to texturize tens when you have curl because then you're able to get that really beautiful curl SHAPE.
because this was cut it while it was straight, it has VERSATILITY. it's still going to look very good when she wears it straight, and curly.
so now what we're going to STYLE her hair. mixing in two of our products together. first our ‘texture’, which is a very nice hold product. it goes in with a little bit of tack, but it keeps a natural texture.
we're going to mix that in with our CURL ENHANCER ‘curl’, and it's going to give it a beautiful shape so that she can wear throughout the day.
a word from natasha: “so i've had this hair for 48 years now and i can tell you that no one has ever managed my hair as well as you. i have to say that because there are times, and i remember being, you know, in my twenties if you can imagine and wanting to, to a paper bag over your head because someone just wrecked it. and i've had people tell me, “oh, you have curl, we should perm them so it stays better.” i cannot even tell you how many times in my life i've cried over my hair and wanted to not go out in public and you know, i don't go to anyone else and i will never let anyone cut my hair except you.”
So, MIX the two products together in your hands…
then APPLY all over the hair. really working it in to cover the strands.
now with the hair styled, i'm going to do is go through and do a process i like to call “hedge cutting”, the curl has a mind of its own and it's going to sit where it wants to sit.
now with it's styled, i'm going to make sure that all the hairs are sitting in place and we don't have a stray curl that wants to pop out that isn't properly. this is a very VISUAL process just to see that everything is balanced in the hairstyle.
check out the haircut, i'll style guys. it looks beautiful. we have amazing shape in the hair. it's got nice body all the way around. your curly hair clients will love this haircut.
there you guys have it. that's how you cut this curly hair to sit really well styled both curly and straight.
if you guys have any questions, leave a comment below and we'll make sure to get right back to you. also, be sure to subscribe to our youtube channel for more fun content like this! we're putting out new videos every friday.
till next time!