hey guys, veronica is here with our beautiful model, kat.
kat's is in the process GROWING OUT HER GRAY and wants something that will camouflage her regrowth. we have talked about her current blonde and how kat doesn’t like the warmth in it. her goal is to be able to allow her grays to grow out and BLEND into the bottom through that process.
to do this, we are going to stick with more an ASHY GRAY COLOR. this way, the blonde that is currently in her hair, is going to look like a gray color coming through.
veronica has all of this blonde to work with, which is going to be very helpful. she is going to have to go through and LIGHTEN her blonde a bit more. this is because currently, we can see a lot of the warm pigment throughout.
it is going to work in our favour that kat is ok with having some warmth left in her hair. if kat chose to get rid of all the gold and warmth, veronica would have to do back to back foils to make sure all the warmth is lifted out..
instead, we'll bring her current color up, and do a SHADOW ROOT to blend out all these greys that we see on the sides.
this shadow root is also going to SOFTEN the LINE of DEMARCATION from the roots to the color at the bottom.
once i lighten out her blonde more, i’ll tone it so that we have an ashy finish so that it matches her greys that are peaking through.
she also needs a CUT. she last got a trim in november! it is now july, so we need to trim these ends and clean her hair up.
why use a shadow root?
with kat's hair, her greys are CONCENTRATED right around the front and on the sides.
if veronica were to take kat’s whole head and color it to blend into the grey, it would make it look like her entire head is gray rather than just in front. to avoid this, veronica will take the back sections to a lighter blonde, but still have it a lovely natural shade.
the goal is to mimic the grey pattern and tone as much as possible. when her color is finished, it's going to look like she has a really nice full head of blonde with a SHADOW ROOT.
she'll have grey patches coming through on the sides, which will look really cool.
this way, she won't have to worry about her roots growing in, and causing a line from her grays to her new color. This technique is really going to BLEND THAT OUT.
prepping the hair
the first step is to do a ROUGH CUT on kat's hair to get off her dead ends and the extra length. there's no need for us to do more color work and waste product when we don't need to.
here is kat's hair, SECTIONED OUT. it is separated into four quadrants; splitting right down the center, creating two sections on the front and two sections on the back.
BLENDING in the greys
veronica will get started in the FRONT QUADRANTS first because that is where the concentration of grey is. the blonde in the front will need to be lighter than the blonde in the back. we're going to work within the patches of grey first and separate those to foil separately than the rest of the section.
when you're trying to MIMIC A GREY PATTERN in somebody's hair, this is a visual process and the placement will vary person to person. it's also going to vary on different areas of the head.
the goal is to mimic exactly how kat's hair grows out from her head. we're going to PICK OUT kat's greys and foil accordingly
we can see that kat already has some lighter ends, but what we want to do is lift it out to take out all the remaining pigments so that these pieces can match her grey exactly.
veronica will heavily FOIL the areas that has more dark hair than light. this will blend her grey out into the rest of her style.
veronica is going to use a FINE WEAVE. the fine weave allows her to give a nice transition for the shadow root to the lighter pieces. its also going to blend out the grey patches and look light around her face.
we are going to lighten out her ends to lift our a majority of the warmth in her hair.
PRO TIP: make sure that you're adjusting this process accordingly to your client because you may want to leave the ends out altogether. if their hair is already light enough, switch to a lower developer lightener so that you're not over-processing the ends.
we are going to continue to work up this section.
veronica is STAGGARING the amount of dark left in the hair this will allow you to have a very diffused color from dark to light, where you don't have a harsh line anywhere where the dark meets the blonde.
PRO TIP: be careful with how you fold the foil. make sure that you fold your foil in a way that prevents the color from bleeding. So we like to fold our foil into THREE SECTIONS.
first, fold the bottom third of the foil over top onto the middle. that's going to keep the lightener inside.
then, fold that section over the top third of the foil.
here's a closeup of what this WEAVE is going to look like.
you can see where the blonde starts, we have the lightener FEATHERED ON softly. this is going to give a diffused line from dark to light.
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the BACK of her hair
we're going to work our way through the BACK SECTIONS now. kat doesn't have any large concentrations of gray back there.
veronica is just going to be doing the regular FINE WEAVE foiling technique.
she is going to be doing a fine weave and STAGGERING the amount of dark that we have in the hair. again, create a very seamless transition from dark to light.
getting the WARMTH out
now that we have her foils all put in.
the brassiness in kat's hair isn't just from her blonde, its also from her FADED BROWN.
when veronica pulls her hair into the light the brown in her hair an orangy coppery tinge. so the blonde itself isn’t the only issue.
veronica is going to LIFT OUT some of the brassy brown color to cut some of the unwanted warmth.
veronica wants to lift out enough of the unwanted warmth so that it'll compliment her new ashy highlights around the front of her face.
here is the first portion with the lightener on it. it is FOILED and FOLDED to keep it out of the way..
now veronica has all the LIGHTENER APPLIED and this is what the foils look like.
on this first test foil, you can see where it had that brassy orange color that has LIFTED OUT quite nicely.
here is another foil that has lifted out really nicely as well.
we're ready to RINSE.
here's what it looks like before we WASH OUT all the lightener.
here the TONER is applied to her hair. she isolated the two areas in the front and added a purple shampoo to it.
PRO TIP: purple shampoo will help to PRE-neutralize any unwanted yellow color in the hair before your tone.
veronica wants to tone her hair to be as ASHY as possible so that we can get it as close as possible to her gray / silver-tone.
here you can see that the blonde back here is looking really lovely. it's going to tone out to a nice platinum blonde.
you can see how silvery it looks here at the front. it's going to match really well.
for the grey side pieces, veronica toned it with a half 10 violet and half 9 ash. then here on the ends, she used a 9 p, which is a pearl.
a SEAMLESS BLEND
we haven't styled her hair yet but here is kat's hair while it's straight and down. you can see how nice and blended it is from dark to light. you can see that her greys are blended in at the front and that her shadowed root will really camouflage her regrowth
and finally, here is kat's hair all done! she “LOVES it!”
you can see how well her grey blends into the rest of her hair.
her regrowth here is her natural grey. you can see how well it blends into her ends.
and you can see on the left side as well.
till next time!
there you guys have it!
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