marissa has this awesome silver colored hair and today we’re going to cut, bleach, & tone her to PERFECT WHITE HAIR.
for the CUT:
first, we’ll cut the sides and the back. marissa is always tucking hair behind her ear, so we’re going to make sure that we give her a nice clean cut around the ear (as well as the rest of the head).
this helps to make our job easier when we’re lightening, as we will be cutting off excess hair that does not need to be lightened. also, we will be able to just paint right on the new growth without worrying about the already lightened ends (since they are cut off).
now that we’ve cut her hair, we’re ready to bleach her hair. though we haven’t touched the top yet, we will clean it up after we’ve lightened the rest of her head.
LIGHTENING the HAIR:
now we’re ready to BLEACH the hair. we’re going to use schwarzkopf blondeme with 20 vol. we generally never do a bleach and tone with more than a 20 vol. it is a more steady, even lightening process that eats out more of the yellow pigment. the 30 & 40 will blow the cuticle open and lighten quickly, but it tends to leave more yellow in the hair. also, it can damage the hair more.
we want to make sure that we DO NOT lighten over the portions that they already been bleached or the hair will be severely damaged.
we’re going to start at the BACK of marissa’s head and work our way forward. luckily, with her short hair in the back we just need to make sure we apply an even layer of lightener and saturate the hair before moving to the top of the head.
the TOP of the head is where things get a bit more complicated. we are going to break the 1 inch roots up into two parts - ½ inch closest to the scalp and ½ inch of roots closest to lightened ends. we are going to apply to the ½ inch closest to the lightened ends first. once this is complete, we will apply to the ½ inch closest to the scalp. we do this so the roots lighten evenly. the hair closest to the scalp lightens faster due to the heat from the scalp and because the hair has not fully keratinized yet. basically meaning, the hair protein hasn't fully hardened yet.
with the lightener all applied, we’re noticing that she still has some yellow pigments we need to get rid of if marissa wants to have WHITE HAIR. so we’re going to wash it out and put a SECOND layer of bleach on her hair.
with the first round of lightener out, you can really see how much yellow pigment was left behind. to keep her hair even and natural, we’re going to start this lightening process at the FRONT and work our way to the BACK with blondeme and 20 vol.
with the 2nd process complete, we can see that her hair is almost WHITE so we’re ready to WASH & TONE.
TONING the hair:
today we’re testing out a NEW toner: the j beverly hills silver toner. we’re going to apply it even throughout the hair and allow it to process for a full 20 minutes before taking her to the sink to wash out.
the result is this beautiful WHITE HAIR: