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how to choose a FOILING TECHNIQUE

we’ve gotten a lot of requests with the same question: how do i choose which FOILING TECHNIQUE to use? as there is no perfect answer, we decided to do a video demonstrating what each foil technique would look like when done. we also explained the things to consider when choosing a foiling technique.

when it comes to choosing a FOILING TECHNIQUE, there is no rule book that will tell you which style requires what.  in fact, that’s where a lot of the creativity in styling hair is born.

what to consider BEFORE choosing a FOILING TECHNIQUE

first things first, you want to consider hair TEXTURE and DENSITY.  a lot of people confuse these two terms. DENSITY is the actual amount of hair your client has on their head and TEXTURE is the actual diameter of the individual hair strands.

for example, many clients will enter your salon and say they have thin hair.  which isn’t necessarily true.  9/10 they’re referring to the thickness of the hair strand.  it’s pretty common for clients to have FINE HAIR, and have a lot of it.  a stylist would describe this as fine hair with a high density.

before you even think about what FOILING TECHNIQUES to use, you’ll want to make sure you know the texture and density of the hair.

5 FOILING TECHNIQUES

we’re going to show you 5 different FOILING TECHNIQUES you can use to craft your styles:

a FINE weave
a MEDIUM weave
a CHUNKY weave
SLICES
how to USE SHAPES

doing a BABY FINE weave

first things first, consider the texture and density.  if we’re doing a baby fine weave on someone with coarse hair, it needs to be a little thicker so that you can see it.   vice versa, if a person have very fine hair you’ll want to make sure that your weave is smaller or it will look blocky and unnatural.

ho to choose a FOILING TECHNIQUE

we use BABY FINE WEAVES a lot when we’re doing balayages and ombres to help break up any harsh lines making the style look natural.

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with the BABY FINE WEAVE, you can see different colors breaking through.

the MEDIUM WEAVE

keep in mind that the size of a MEDIUM WEAVE is dependant on the density and texture of the hair. a “medium weave” on someone with really fine hair might actually look more like a “chunky weave”. this is why it’s so important to take the time to examine the texture and density of the hair.

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with the medium weave, you can see how it looks a bit more streaked. this technique is great when you want to control or vary the amount of highlights that you see. It’s also a great technique to use on top of the head to prevent any stripiness.

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the CHUNKY or THICK WEAVE

as mentioned before, you’ll want to consider the density of the hair.

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this is a great technique to use to give cuts a flash of color. it’s a modern spin to the “peak-a-boo” technique from the 90’s

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PROTIP: to keep your foils tight to the root, start applying your color from the mid-shaft down to the ends. secure the foil at the roots and then paint right to the top at the very end.  this will prevent your foils from bleeding everywhere.

doing SLICES

a SLICE involves painting a whole section as opposed to weaving.  this can be thicker or thinner, depending on the density of the hair and the style you’re doing. keep in mind, the thicker the section is, the harder it’ll be to keep the foil closer to the root.

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on top of the actual density of the hair, we also must consider the density of the foils. we do show you in the video what it looks like when you slices closer together vs. farther apart. you’ll notice the red will look more solid when the foils are closer together.

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PRO TIP: in fine and thin hair, slices can make the hair look like a solid color if the foils are spaced too closely. that being said, they are great to use in when you want to add panels of color for dimension. color corrections are also a great time to use this technique.

using SHAPES in FOIL TECHNIQUES.

in this case, we’ve chosen to use triangles.  when we’re coloring, we like things to be asymmetrical yet balanced as we feel it looks better.  all we did was take lightener and color over these entire triangles.

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as you can see, you can see a beautiful cascade of color shining through.  when using shapes, you can use any shape you see fit.  just consider how it is going to fall and visualize the effect you are trying to create.

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every head of hair will need a different FOILING TECHNIQUE.  as you continue your journey as a stylist, you’ll feel more comfortable making decisions and employing various techniques. mannequins are great for practicing! they typically have medium density and coarse texture, making them a perfect head of hair for experimenting with foiling techniques.
have a question?  leave a comment or ask us directly @nvennhairbeauty :)

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