there has been so much hype about the CHUNKY HIGHLIGHT pinwheel videos that we’ve done in the last couple months. our videos about creating chunky highlights and our tutorial on using the pinwheel pattern for chunky highlights have gotten such good response from our followers on youtube.
this week veronica is in the chair and jessica is going to show you the easiest and simplest way to touch up the chunky highlight pinwheel look when those roots start to come in!
veronica has had a partial foils done where she lightens only the top and perimeter of her hair in between the ‘big’ jobs where she foils the entire head. since the partial was done more recently, there is only about an inch of regrowth there. the rest of the head has not been done for awhile, and you can see she has some major dark roots going on in the interior portions of the hair.
with this much regrowth, this job is going to take a couple different formulas of lightener for each section to ensure even lightening throughout.
retouching CHUNKY HIGHLIGHTS
jessica has mixed up 4 different formulas for veronica’s hair. jessica is using:
1) 5.1 with ash additive for the first ½ inch of new growth closest to the scalp
2) 5.1 without the ash additive for the remaining hair ½ inch from the scalp
*PRO TIP: the heat from the scalp will cause the hair to process warmer at the root. adding more ash to the new growth formula will compensate for this and give an even end color.
3) 1:1 ratio of blondeme premium lifts 9 + 30 vol. for the perimeter root regrowth
4) 1:1.5 mixture of 30 vol. with blue additive to cut the warm tones from the lightening process.
*PRO TIP: using a lower mixing ratio of developer gives you a thicker consistency of bleach. using a thicker consistency lightener, is better for foiling shorter new growth areas. it sticks to the foil better and helps prevent the foils from sliding out of place.
jessica starts in the back and works her way up. she’s weaving out the portions that are previously lightened. with the remaining darker pieces, she uses formula #1 to retouch the new growth.
it’s very important to work your way around the perimeter of the hair first and retouch all of the shorter roots quickly. this ensures those sections have even processing time. the bleach is processing as soon as we mix the bleach and developer, so the clock is ticking. work quickly to make sure you are using bleach to its fullest potential.
jessica has worked her way up to the interior portion of the hair where the dark new growth is quite a bit longer, and there is some overlapping strands where the dark and light hair fall over top of one another.
for this step, we want to use a visual process and pick out the dark strands so that we don’t darken any of the light hair or vice-versa.
for the dark roots of these sections, jessica uses formula #4. for darker lowlights, she applies formula #1 to the new growth that’s right up against veronica’s (first ½ inch) scalp, and formula #2 on the the rest of the new growth.
she’ll continue this same set of techniques until all of the hair is in foils and processing....
after the 2 hour mark, Veronica’s hair is all in foils and processing. we’ll give it just a bit longer to process and we’ll be ready to rinse and tone.
- apply 8.5 ash to her new growth area of all the freshly lightened portions where there is a lot of warmth to neutralize out
- apply a 9n to any blonde portions that were lightened out past a level 9. generally, this would be the portion where lightener has expanded on to previously lightened hair lifting it to a very light ‘white’ color.
- apply 9 pearl to all her previously lightened ends. her ends are already toned from before, so there is less warmth to neutralize out.
the FINAL LOOK
after several hours of foiling, four different formulas, and 3 different toners, we are all finished with veronica’s CHUNKY HIGHLIGHT RETOUCH, and it is fabulous. jessica was able to create amazing contrasts with the dark and light colors without the hair looking ‘stripey’. simply stunning.
if you have any comments or questions, leave a comment with your thoughts in the section below. let us know what kind of videos you would like to see in the future, and don’t forget to like and subscribe @nvennhairbeauty. Stay tuned for a new video every week! <3