hey beauty activists, i'm with one of my most favorite humans, patti!
this woman is fierce! today, i’m going to teach patti how to style her hair on her own between visits. what better way to have her remember the process than me recording myself, teaching her.
with all your clients, what's going to keep them coming back to you is if you can teach them how to do their hair EVERY SINGLE DAY. the number one thing that people always say to me is that ‘my hair looks great when i come to the salon and then it doesn't look good until i come back’.
let's say your client returns every 6 to 12 weeks. if they don’t know how to style their hair, it could look like crap for a month and a half to three months until they come back in. that’s UNACCEPTABLE! they are your walking billboards! instead, why not show your clients how to style their hair properly so they LOVE their hair everyday.
patti has 2 major issues! one, she faces a huge issue with frizz - which is actually a big problem that a lot of people suffer from. her second issue is that she can never style it the same way twice. today, we are going to show her how to FIX both of these problems.
DRYING out the excess moisture
N.B. *be sure to attach your CONCENTRATOR to your blow dryer before starting*
PRO TIP: when you're shopping for a blow dryer, there are 3 things that you are looking for.
1) that it has a concentrator attachment
2) you want to get something with a “cool” setting
3) you want something with different power settings you can switch between.
first, start with an all over TOWEL DRY.
next, you’ll want to ‘POWER DRY’ out the EXCESS MOISTURE from your roots with the blow dryer (basically just blast your hair with the dryer so it’s not sopping wet.
PRO TIP: some of you may know this, and some of you may not. your clients definitely do not know this so be sure to tell them --> the reason why their hair looks frizzy after they dry it, is because when the airflow from their blow dryer is flowing in the WRONG DIRECTION.
the cuticle, which is the protective layer of your hair shaft, lays on your shaft like shingles on a roof (so they lay flat down, one on top of another). you hair WILL look frizzy if the air from your dryer is ever flowing upwards (on the hair strand).
the AIR should flow from ROOTS TO END and you’ll dry your hair in ALL DIRECTIONS.
your hair will do exactly what you tell it to do! if you blow dry your hair with your part pre-SET in it every single time, then it TRAIN ITSELF to be like that permanently.
there’s a DOWNSIDE to this though; your hair will start to look flat and won’t have much movement!
PRO TIP: the style will have the most movement if you blow dry the hair in all directions (from root to end). imagine your head (or your client’s head) to be like a basketball, and use it to “MOLD” the hair around the head. spend some time blow drying around the hairline and the nape; that’s where the hair will be the “KINKIEST”.
the hair around the hairline and the nape is often where it's going to be the coarsest and the curliest. really use TENSION from your fingers to straighten it out.
the KEY to having a good style is in the blow dry. styling your hair with the dryer first is the BEST way to get your style FRIZZ FREE and with BODY. relying on the flat iron to smooth out your hair will get your hair straight here but you’re NOT going to get the kind of volume that you want from a flat iron.
products make the look
the key to getting a hairstyle to LAST all day, are the PRODUCTS used for the style.
if we were to take away all the products from a stylist’s hair station, we would not be able to style people’s hair the way that we do. this is the SAME for YOU AT HOME.
client’s NEED TO BE SENT HOME with the products that they’ll need to recreate the look that you are showing them! most people are using products. if they aren’t getting them from you, they are getting them from somewhere else.
most people have a little bit of TEXTURE in their hair. there's a COUPLE KEY PRODUCTS that everyone can benefit from putting in their hair.
first is REPLENISHING OIL.
PROTIP: when you have HAIR WITH TEXTURE, you want to apply nvenn’s 'replenish' when it's about 50% DRY. when the hair is completely dry, the frizz will be harder to fight with. if you apply the product when the hair is too wet, the hair will be saturated with water and won’t be able to absorb the product (if the client has straight hair, you can dry it to maybe about 70% before you put products in).
we're going to take a nickel size amount of ‘replenish’ and begin to work it in.
this ‘replenish’ oil is amazing! it FILLS IN all the cracks and crevices of your hair - it’s great for split ends AND smoothing out ANY texture of hair.
to APPLY IT, start on the ends first and then gradually work your fingers up through the sides and lastly the hairline.
PRO TIP: you want the least amount of product around the hairline so apply the product there last.
next, we're going to spray in nvenn’s ‘fix’. this is for volume.
and then lastly, nvenn’s ‘protect’ gets misted all over. this is the BEST HEAT SHIELD. i always spray that on at the very end to lock in the other products.
adding in the BRUSH
now, back to blow drying. once the products are applied, you will start by POWER DRYING again. using a brush too soon will add unnecessary time to your styling time.
i am still blowing the air down from her roots to her ends AND still in all directions.
PRO TIP: make sure to keep the dryer MOVING around your head. if the hair starts to get hot, it's BURNING- even if it’s still wet. if it gets hot, move to another section and come back to dry the “hot section” once it’s cooled down.
today we're going to use a DENMAN BRUSH this one is the one of my favorite brushes for blow drying out TEXTURED hair! the rubber base creates a static electricity that pulls the hair nice and STRAIGHT.
you want to take THICK sections to give you the tension that you need to pull the hair straight. i divide everyone’s hair into 3 sections; the bottom, the middle and the top OR what i call, “the basement, the main floor, and the roof” of a style.
continue to power dry the hair until it’s about 90-95% dry.
now with the brush; the magic number that you want to pass over each section is THREE! one pass to WARM it, a second pass to HEAT it, and then a THIRD to smooth the hair.
the heat from the dryer is what's changing the texture of the hair. if the hair is too cold, too wet or too anything, it's not going to straighten it out.
afterwards, give the hair a blast of cold air to SET IT!
you want to get it as straight as possible with the brush and dryer and just use the flat iron minor touch ups.
let me show you how straight her back is after using the brush.
the middle section
now that we are done the bottom section (what i call “THE BASEMENT”), we’ll move to the middle section (what i call “THE MAIN FLOOR”).
on this side, i'm going to demo doing the front section around her face. we're going to take a big enough section. so you have the tension that you need.
first COMB IT OUT and wedge the brush in RIGHT at the base of her hair.
the reason why you have this concentrator piece on your blow dryer is because it directs your air flow. blow the air DOWN THE HAIR SHAFT.
to get lots of BODY on the top of the style, we're going to pull the hair UP and OUT.
here you can see how smooth it is already.
setting in the PART
now it’s time to SET HER PART. i always do this at the very end.
there's so much movement in her hair that i can literally put her part anywhere. POWER DRYING your hair in ALL DIRECTIONS will get rid of any cowlicks you have in your hair. (if you want to see how to get rid of cowlicks, you can watch this video)
the goal with blow drying, is to get the hair AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE and with lots of body.
you can add the final smoothing touches with a flat iron. before you flat iron, add one more layer of heat protection with ‘protect’.
using the flat iron
flat irons are just to FINE TUNE your style at the end. your hair is mostly straight at this point so you can turn the heat level down.
avoid straightening the hair line to maintain the body you just blew dry into it. just use the iron to smooth out any kinks you may have from the midshaft to the ends.
i'm actually going to do her hair in bigger sections because i don't want to get rid of all this body that i have put into it.
you should be able to just pass over the hair once (no need to ‘re-clamp’ it over and over).
PROTIP: a good temperature for your flat iron is around 360-370F. (check out the video for a more detailed instruction on how to select the right temperature for your iron).
i’m going to texturize patti’s hair to finish off the style.
the final look!
just look at the style and how nice and smooth it is all over.
it's beautiful with lots of volume. it's just perfect.
that's it for today's blog. we hope you enjoyed it. if you have any questions or comments, leave them down below, we will get back to you.
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