today we are here with kat who has a beautiful blue canvas of hair for us to work with. we’re going to strip out the blue with a color remover and show you a quick foiling pattern for CHUNKY HIGHLIGHTS that is less time consuming than the pinwheel pattern from our recent video.
she went blue about six months ago using ‘arctic fox’. blue pigment is probably the most difficult to remove from hair because it’s the largest molecule of all the pigments.
today, jessica is going to be testing out a color remover, the ‘pop xg reducer’ from paul mitchell.
once the color is stripped out, we are going to color her hair using pulp riot semi permanent direct dyes in the shades ‘cupid’ and ‘blush’
LIGHTENING the hair
first we need to remove the blue from the hair. jessica will apply the COLOR REMOVER twice to remove as much of the blue pigment as possible and after that, she’ll use bleach to lighten out the regrowth and whatever color is left in the end of kat’s hair.
for the pink to really show through, we want to get her hair as close to as a level 10 as possible, but with that in mind, we also want to keep the integrity of the hair. it’s important to really watch the hair and adjust your methods if needed to prevent over processing the hair.
the level of developer you choose for the color remover will vary depending on the color you need to remove and condition of the hair you’re working with. no two heads of hair are identical, and no two processes will be exactly the same. for this process, jessica is going to mix the remover with 20 vol.
working from the bottom up, and back to front, you want to apply the color remover to the hair until the whole head is covered.
after just a couple minutes, you can see that kat’s color has begun to lighten a bit.
at the 25 minute mark, you can see that a lot of the color is gone, but her hair is still really blue.
with the first color remover washed out, you can see how much lighter her hair is but it’s still pretty blue. jessica is going to repeat the process again, but this time she is going to use paul mitchell product on one half of the hair, and pravana color remover on the other half.
PRO TIP: the pop xg color remover will lighten natural hair. this is important to keep in mind if you want to keep the natural root.
with the second round of color remover applied, we are applying heat to the side with the pravana lightener.
the pravana color remover (on the left) didn’t remove as much pigment as the pop xg reducer (on the right).
we concluded that the xg color reducer probably contains bleach because it lightened any hair that it touched (both natural and artificial pigments were affected). both sides of the hair though still feel very strong.
jessica is going to first apply schwartzkopf blondme with a 20 vol developer to bluest parts of the hair, followed by the regrowth.
PRO TIP: if there is a small amount of pigment left over in the hair after the bleaching process, don’t freak out. it could be fine. spread the hair and look closely at how light it is. as long as it looks like a level 10 (even with a little blue staining), the hair is done.
DO NOT attempt to bleach all of the blue out. this will overprocess the hair and ruin the integrity.
with all the lightener washed out, it's time to create an even base tone. we’re going to use a level 10 violet toner to neutralize the yellow in the hair.
with all the toner washed out you can see that the base is a little more even root to end.
creating the CHUNKY HIGHLIGHTS
in this next step, you are going to see how to create chunky highlights using a PIE SHAPED PATTERN.
to create this pattern, you are going to make crescent shaped sections. you want to stagger the size of each section to create a diffused result.
PRO TIP: incorporate their ‘part’ into the center of first crescent shaped section. this will ensure that they have a little veil of the same color on both sides of their part, rather than 1 color on one side and one color on the other side.
we’re going to start with applying the dark pink to the section behind the ear.
working forward from the first section, you will alternate the light/ dark pink.
PRO TIP: use a wide tooth comb to gently pull the color through the strands to make sure all of the hair is evenly saturated.
by working your way forward, you can lay each new section over top of the previous one. this will help keep the color nice and CLEAN.
here you can see that the color is processing very nicely. we’re just about ready to rinse her out.
styling the HAIR
to style the hair, we are going to apply some nvenn ‘replenish’ strength restoration oil and moisturizing shine infuser. this product is AMAZING. it’s a special blend of oils and essential oils designed to strengthen hair. it will also add some really nice shine to her hair. it’s lightweight and non-greasy, so it won’t weigh down hair.
next jessica is going to give her a bit of a ‘root-boost’ with nvenn ‘fix’ flexible working hair spray.
the FINAL RESULT
after ten hours in the chair, kat’s new ‘do is all finished.
as you can see, she now has beautiful CHUNKY PINK HIGHLIGHTS without any stripeyness!
if you have any questions or comments, leave them in the comments below. don’t forget to like and subscribe @nvennhairbeauty and stay tuned for a new video every friday! <3