today we are here with michelle. she’s been blonde for a while, but today she is looking to go platinum. She’s got a good amount of dark root growth coming in, and we are going to incorporate that into a stunning SHADOWED ROOT.
as you can see, she has a fairly even amount of brown ROOTS all over her head. she also has a some violet tones, some sections that are light blonde, and some bits of darker blonde towards the ends.
she has recently had an artificial level 6 applied to her hair, so in order to take her to platinum and maintain a really DIFFUSED color transition, jessica is going to create babylights throughout all of her hair to bring up some of the blonde and incorporate some of the natural root color.
When that is done, jessica is going to apply a cream paint-on lightener to lighten out the rest of her ends and get her as platinum as possible while maintaining the integrity of her hair.
SECTIONING the hair
Here we have her hair divided into 4 basic sections.
for the front section, jessica is creating the part how michelle normally wears her hair so that the pattern is mirrored on both sides.
jessica has mixed up 2 formulas, one is a schwarzkopf BLONDME with 20 VOL developer and the other is a paint on CREME LIGHTENER.
APPLYING the lightener
first, jessica creates a semi fine weave at the bottom of the back section.
PRO TIP: how ‘fine’ the weave is, is dependent on the texture of the hair. Asian hair is coarser so if your weave is too fine, you’re not going to be able to see it.
jessica begins by applying the BLONDME with 20 VOL. to the roots of to the back section starting, working from the bottom up. she is also going to apply the cream lightener to the blond ends of the strands.
you should be careful not to extend the lightener onto the portions of hair that are already very light, this will prevent the already processed hair from being damaged by over-processing.
we are going to continue this process with the lightener until all of the hair is sectioned and foiled.
with the hair in foils, it has begun to process very nicely. jessica is now going to begin to apply the lightener to the ends of the hair to remove the warm brassy tones from the end of the strands.
again, she is using a BLONDME with 20 VOL. developer with a bit of blue additive to get the ends to the desired shade.
once again, starting with the bottom sections of the hair, jessica applies the lightener using a feathering technique to the orange-ey parts of the ends to remove the darker blond color from the hair. she is going to use this same technique all the way up the head until all of the ends are covered.
as you can see the color has lifted very nicely, and most of the pigment that was there is now gone.
the ends of the foiled section have really lightened nicely as well. we’re ready to wash and rinse.
WASHING and TONING the hair
after the foils and purple shampoo, her hair has begun to lighten very nicely. at this point, we should be able to reach our desired color with toner.
PRO TIP: A common mistake among stylist is to continue to foil and re-process the hair once it has reached this light blonde shade. this can damage the hair. instead, you should use a toner to bring the hair up to the desired platinum shade.
with the toner processed, michelle is ready to rinse.
jessica has just rough dried michelle’s hair, and is going to apply some nvenn ‘replenish’ strength restoration oil and moisturizing shine infuser to keep her ends looking really nice.
next, jessica applies nvenn ‘fix’ flexible working hair spray to give michelle’s style a little bit of a root boost and some working volume.
finally she applies some nvenn ‘protect’ heat shield to create a protective barrier that will prevent the damaging effects of heat from the blow dryer.
PRO TIP: put a fresh layer of heat protector between every layer of heat. i.e) before you blow dry and re-apply before you flat iron.
the FINAL look
the final result is a beautiful platinum blonde with beautiful natural diffusion from the roots to the ends of each strand. we were able to really eliminate any harsh lines or color transition.
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