ASHY brown hair how to get rid of brassiness in hair

April 03, 2020

Hi guys! we're going to be doing veronica's roots today.

veronica does a smoky beige brown hair color. it's an ASHY BROWN hair color - she doesn't want any warmth in there whatsoever. so there is a technique to doing an ashy brown color. we have people that come in with photos of hair colors that look brown to the eye, but they don't realize that it's actually a really light hair color to achieve.

veronica’s hair has to be lifted to a light color before we can color it to this ash brown hair color. this is because you have to take the warm pigment out of the hair so that when the color fades, it doesn't fade to show yellow and orange undertones. veronica’s hair is actually faded right now, but you can see it still maintains a nice TRANSLUCENT kind of palette.

there is also a specific technique to the LIGHTENER as well. veronica is that small percentage of the population that actually has that natural LEVEL ONE hair. her hair is jet black, so there's going to be a very specific way that we mix the lightener so that we can get it light enough in one shot. this is how to get a true NINE LEVELS OF LIFT in one sitting with one application.

starting with lightener

this is her hair now before we get started. you can see how much your color has faded. still nice and beautiful though of course!

the first thing i'm going to do is section the hair into four quadrants. i'm going to be APPLYING the lightener in the front sections of her hair first. we want to ensure that these areas get the most amount of lift. typically if the hair is a bit darker underneath in the nape, it gives a more natural of a look to the style anyways.

so the key to getting her to a level nine in one shot is you want to make sure the lightener is really FRESH cause it needs its full power. so whenever i'm mixing her lightener, i keep all of the supplies close by and only mix 3-5 grams at a time. this ensures the lightener is consistently new and lifting at its optimal potential. we are using blondme premium lift 9 which is a lightener that gives 9 levels of lift.

lightener sitting in the bowl is always consistently OXIDIZING (meaning it's processing). this means over time, its losing its lifting power. so the fresher you keep it, the more powerful the lightener will be.

PROTIP: don't mix on the scale! the consistent, repetitive motion actually damages the sensor on it.

while we are mixing the lightener, take a look at the BACK of veronica’s hair.

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back to veronica! because she doesn't have a ton of roots, we have an easy application to apply the lightener.

typically, if there were a lot of roots, you would do the lightener that's FURTHEST from the scalp first. then come back and do the new growth that is closest to the scalp. this technique is used to give even processing throughout the roots. with this only being a small amount of new growth, you can just paint the lightener on fully without having to do it in sections.

i'm going to do the FRONT on this side and then move to the front on the opposite side. we are starting here because we want both sides of the head to be lightest in the front. then, i'm going to work my way around the head, moving on to the back section on the second side. after that, we will finish on the remaining section which is the back section of the first side.

it's very important to go section through section this way because you want to ensure even lifting time on both the left and right side of the head. you don't want to do the front on one side and then work on the back of the same side, because that half of the head will be lighter than the other half of the head. you want to be working STRATEGICALLY. by working around the head in this way, you ensure fairly even processing time on both the left and right side.

here's the lightener on her scalp. you can see it's almost done. There are a few parts there that still need to be lifted a bit more, but the rest of it, is looking real good.

check it out we are ready to wash. it's perfect!

After washing, you can see how nice and light it is. But, there's still that hint of GOLD.

TONING the roots

so we're going to pre tone before we color. i have steel blue from schwarzkopf in this bowl. i'm going to use this to NEUTRALIZE all of the existing warmth. then i'm going to wash it out and apply her final color.

i'm starting to apply the TONER in the last quadrant that i applied the lightener to last. then, i'm going to follow the sections around the head in the reverse order of how the lightener was applied. the reason we do this, is because the sections applied to last had the least amount of processing time for the lightener. naturally that means, they may have more pigment left that requires toning out. applying in the REVERSE order gives more processing time for the toner to sit in these sections.

this toner is crazy! it's only been 12 minutes and look how neutral it is.

***This product is really high ammonia so if your clients have sensitive scalps be really careful with it.

we have a nice toned out palette. now i'm going to put on 7.2 from J BEVERLY HILLS.

we want the roots to DEPOSIT color into the hair so that it matches the ends. we are going to wait and let it process for another five minutes or so.

now that the root color has deposited enough pigment to match the color level on the ends, we are ready to move onto the last step.

we're going to go ahead and put 8.2 on her ends to refresh her color.

the lovely finished color

this is the color all finished so you can check it out.

a perfect, nice ASHY BROWN COLOR without any warmth, brassiness, or gold. at a level seven, we know that we have an orange pigment underneath. that's typically what shows through, and that's why you typically get that warm look to the color. since we took that warm pigment out and then colored it back down to a 7, we now have a true cooler ash brown hair color with a bit of translucency or hollowness to it.

and that’s how to color ashy brown hair to get it truly as a ‘no warmth’ brown.

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