March 20, 2020
today we're going to be doing a haircut make-over on ms. serap. she has really long hair that has been growing out for a while now. i want to cut a lot of it off to really open up her face.
when i'm teaching people about hair, i always stress that your eyes always follow “LINES”. so right now if you're looking at our model, your eyes get pulled way down to her chest.
so what i want to do is bring it up to her clavicle.
she has some nice, beautiful, natural texture that i will lightly layer. serap has a finer density of hair. the reason why i don't want to do a ton of layering is because i want to create FULLNESS around her perimeter. i'm going to leave her perimeter on the blunt side but minimizing the amount of texturizing i’ll do. that being said, i will layer around her face to open up her face a little bit more as well. i’ll walk you through how to do it.
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we're going to switch her part to today. she came in with it extremely offset.
i’m going to move it more CENTER for her because she has a finer hair texture. fine hair flies away more easily when the wind blows. having the part a little closer to the center is really going to help it to open up her face and have her hair to sit where it's supposed to sit.
she also likes to flip her part. having a center part makes it an equal length on both sides so it’ll be relatively even if you decide to wear an off-center part one day. first, we’ll start by cutting the perimeter.
first let’s define what “fine texture” is. fine texture just means that their hair strands are really skinny. for example, you can't even see her flyaways because they're so skinny.
i like to keep their hair on the SHORTER side because that's going to create a FULLER finished result.
when i take this part off, look how much fuller her hair will look. remember, i’m going to keep the layering to a minimum - again to create more fullness.
PRO TIP: when you're cutting hair in NATURAL FALL, what you want to do is comb everything straight down like this and then hold it just with your comb. that way you can ensure there is EVEN TENSION throughout. then when you're cutting, you're going to cut on the out stroke.
PRO TIP: cutting on the out stroke means you are cutting the hair as you are closing the scissors and pulling the scissors away from the hair. this leaves the hair in natural fall as you are cutting. if you cut on the ‘in stroke’ you will find that you are pushing the hair inwards as you are cutting so when you are done, it actually leaves the hair a little bit longer than it would be in natural fall.
to cut her sides, i'm going to turn her head completely to the right to cut her right side and completely to the left to cut her left side. i’m doing this to ensure that the perimeter is all the same LENGTH. if i don't turn her head, the front will end up being longer because it has to go over top of the shoulder.
if she was someone that wasn't gonna wear her natural texture very much or never work curly, i would actually probably just leave her hair as one length like this. but because she does wear her NATURAL TEXTURE, i'm going to layer her just a little bit so that her texture has room to move around and play.
with her density of hair, i'm only going to layer upwards from the O BONE. i want enough hair around her perimeter to make it look full.
i’m going to pull out all her hair between her occipital bone and the parietal ridge straight out from her head to layer.
this will create a rounded effect. these layers will fall nice and SOFT.
i'm also going to overdirect every section ALL THE WAY BACK towards the CENTER. this is going to maintain as much length as possible in through the back and the sides.
i'm OVER DIRECTING all the way to the center, not just the previous section to MAINTAIN MAXIMUM FULLNESS.
you can see here, at the sides, there's almost nothing to cut, that's okay!
when you get to the front, you can see the DENSITY difference. that happens to a lot of us. it just naturally gets finer and thinner through the front.
i’m going to use the section just behind her ears as the length guide.
i'm going to take everything except the very front section around her face, and pull it back to just behind the ears and layer it accordingly. i’ll start with the section closest to the ear.
i will continue this with the entire front section leaving out the section closest to her face.
again, there's not a ton to cut, and that's ok. you’ll find that most people have a decent amount of breakage around there hairline so chances are their hair was shorter there to begin with. also, most people naturally have less hair right around their hairline compared to the rest of their head.
i leave the front sections out to be able to layer them around the face. it's so fine in the front. if you pull it up and try to layer it, there is a really good chance that you could end up cutting too much out and then you end up with holes in the haircut. when you keep it down, you can easily see how much you can layer it while still keeping the fullness of the perimeter.
now i'm going to do the other side. again, you're going to see that i'm over directing everything to the center.
all the hair behind the ears will be over directed all the way to the center back section to maintain MAXIMUM LENGTH.
and then i'm going to pull the side sections back, to just behind her ear to layer the sides. remember to leave out the section closest to her face for the very end.
now to CROSSCHECK, you're just going to grab a small section of hair from each side of the top and you want to make sure that they match perfectly.
i'm going to style the cut first and then layer those 2 front sections that i left out at the very end.
today i'm going to be styling her hair with nvenn’s ‘fix’. fix is the best product that you can spray into someone's hair that has a finer density. it gives a lot of BODY without weighing down their hair. you just want to lightly mist it all over the hair.
and then, spritz some protect all over to ensure the hair remains HEAT DAMAGE FREE.
now you can blow dry.
so this is what it looks like straight. now we're just going to add a little bit of curl.
if you look at her hair already, it sits really nicely. like i may add a little bit of texture along the perimeter just to soften up the edges a little bit but not too much.
the keys to POINT CUTTING is you want the shears to go in exactly parallel to the hair strands so that you're not cutting out any chunks.
I'm just going to do this along the perimeter to soften the edges without removing any bulk because i want to keep the weight in her haircut.
now when you look at the front of her hair, it just pulls your eye all the way down here because she doesn’t have any layers yet.
what i want to do is i want to start her layering around her chin.
i am going to use a SLIDE CUTTING TECHNIQUE. to execute this correctly, you want to make sure that you're opening and closing your sheers all the way along so that you're not tearing out any hair strands.
you can do this in the direction that you want the hair to fall. if you want the hair to fall forward, you would do this in a forward direction and vice versa.
before i curl it, you can see how nice and FULL her hair looks. a great cut can make a huge difference as to whether the hair looks thin or thick.
once her hair is curled, i'm going to use 'smooth' - it is the best for defining curls. to apply, you’ll want to break it down in your hands and then piece the curls out.
this is also really great for fly aways. you can put it right onto her roots.
the big reveal -ALL DONE!
so that's it for today's blog. if you have any questions or comments about how to do this cut, leave them down below. we will get back to you. also subscribe to our youtube channel. we release new videos every friday.
have a beautiful day!
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