July 03, 2017
with OMBRE still holding the throne for biggest trend in town, we decided to dig a little deeper into the magic and do a video on the techniques we use to do a blonde BLENDED OMBRE style. lucky for us, jessica was in need of a retouch + color so we’re in luck.
watch the video, read the blog, tell us what you think @nvennhairbeauty & snag our CHEAT SHEET to get the formulas ;)
during this how to, we’re bringing her BLONDE up higher and retouching the color throughout to create a DIFFUSED line with seamless transitions. here’s where we’re starting from:
as always, you want to start by dividing the hair into sections. we generally stick to 4 even quadrants unless the hairstyle calls for a different sections pattern.
take your time! this style takes a lot of precision.
we’re foiling the WHOLE head back to back. every single hair on the head is going to be in foils, outside of a few slices we left to keep some of the dark.
this foiling pattern is going to be broken into 2 parts. take the section into your hand and do a baby WEAVE on the top of the section creating 2 parts. clip the top part out of the way.
with the 1st bottom part of section, you’re going to BACKCOMB the hair. make sure you’re doing proper backcombing and that you’re not tearing or ripping the hair.
prep your foil and FEATHER the lightener over the backcombed section to ensure that you’re breaking up the line from dark to light on the style.
with the 2nd top part of the section, we are doing a BABYLIGHT using the baby weave we created.
this will act as a veil and further DIFFUSE the line. feather the lightener closer to the root than the previously backcombed section.
to craft the DYNAMIC and SEAMLESS color, we need to alter the amount of hair that we lighten section to section which will stagger the amount of dark there is in the hair.
after we’ve completed sections up to her temple, we want to leave a section out to incorporate the original amount of dark color she had.
in order to make this color BLEND naturally, we need to create a babylight at the top of the section left out. this section will replace the bottom backcombed technique in previous foils.
remember to turn your brush sideways and FEATHER the color creating a veil over the previous section.
continue back to the original approach doing a BACKCOMBING section. use another BABYLIGHT to further the fluidity of the veil. again, we have to paint this HIGHER than the previous backcombed section. rotate the amount of dark you have in your foils by staggering how high you paint your lightener and incorporating sections left out.
after all your foils are in, your client’s head should look a lot like this:
we let the lightener sit for 60 minutes before washing out.
with this process, we’ve got her hair to level 8 or 9. that’s okay for the bottom part of the hair, but we want the BLONDE to be lighter higher up so we’re going to REFOIL the head above the o-bone to get that to a level 10.
at the end of the day, it is ALWAYS better to under-lighten and lighten again than to risk taking over processing the hair. (especially if you’re new to this OMBRE technique. the foils can take a long time to apply.)
to bring the hair to the level 10 we desire, we’re doing just that. we start by sectioning:
we’re going to VERY DELICATELY lighten the sections we want to bring to a level 10, taking note not to extend the lightener over the hair that is already light enough.
we watched the lightener by eye and washed it once we achieved the level we wanted.
now it’s time to TONE.
now we’re ready to remove the brassy tones and get this BLENDED OMBRE finished.
apply the toner evenly and allow it to process for the full time.
in our case, we ended up toning the hair a second time to get out a few pesky brass tones. as you may have noticed, jessica is asian and with that- her hair will have more pigment. a lot of time with ethnic hair, you’re going to need to go the extra mile with a second toner to tone out unwanted pigments.
in total, this style took 6 HOURS to complete. though the techniques take extra love, they are worth the work. if she wanted to, she could let this style grow out for an entire year and only need to retouch her regrowth and tone occasionally. there you have it! <3
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