January 05, 2018 3 Comments
today we’re going to show you how to do a COLOR CORRECTION on hair that’s been box-dyed black.
willow’s been dying her hair black for about 2 years. she’s got very fine hair and a LOT of it.
so we’re going to need to be extremely careful to complete this COLOR CORRECTION to maintain the integrity of her hair.
since there is so much pigment to remove, we’re going to do a few rounds of artificial color remover to gently remove as much of the pigment as possible before going in with lightener.
this process begins with washing the hair with the pravana artificial color remover step #1: CLARIFYING SHAMPOO. clarifying shampoo prepares the hair by removing any build up that is on the hair.
give the hair a good scrub with the clarifying shampoo throughout the head and rinse out. do this as many times as you need to make the hair feel squeaky clean.
once this is done, towel dry out any excess moisture in the hair.
to apply the COLOR REMOVER, we’re going to paint it on to all the dark parts of the hair. the remover will only lift artificial colors, so it’s ok if it touches the natural color.
once the hair is entirely saturated, we’re going to put willow’s hair under heat for 20 minutes.
after the FIRST session of color remover, you can easily see there is more pigment remaining on the midshafts than the ends. this is due to the hair being more porous on the ends which allows the pigment to escape quicker. we’ll need to do a second layer of color remover to get rid of those dark pigments in the center of the hair.
for the SECOND session of color remover, we’re going to focus on the midshaft of the hair. we want to try and remove as much of the dark pigment as possible before we go in with lightener. the more artificial pigment that gets removed with the color remover, the better.
after another 20 minutes under heat, we’re ready to wash her out.
now we’re at a nice orange color. this is as far as the pravana color remover will bring us. now we will go in with a stronger lightener to remove pigment to get us to the PERFECT STRAWBERRY BLONDE.
we’re going to paint the lightener on without foils from the MIDSHAFT TO ENDS of the hair where we want to lighten out artificial pigment. avoid the natural root color as that is not necessary to lighten.
it’s important to note that throughout the head, we remixed new lightener. this is because we want the lightener to stay fresh and strong as we move from section to section until the entire head is covered in lightener.
from here, we’ll allow the lightener to process for a full hour before washing out. this is a visual process so some heads will not allow or need a full lightening session. the processing time will vary and depend on the health of the hair, starting color and target color.
after washing the lightener out, it’s clear we’ll need to do a second round of lightening. the good news? we won’t need to apply lightener as heavily towards the top or bottom this time around. instead, we’ll be focussing heavily on the midshaft of the hair again where its holding the darker orange pigment.
what we will be doing differently is starting in the sections in the opposite direction as the first lightening process. we will start in the front sections and work our way back. this allows for EVEN PROCESSING time, as we started from the back during our first lightening session.
after allowing the lightener to process for another hour and washing it out, we’re ready to apply her color.
it’s important to mix different formulas for all of the colors that you see during a color correction. in willow’s case, her hair has lightened out quite evenly. we’re going to mix a different formula for her natural roots and for the ends so her color comes out nice and even.
we’re lucky that we were able to get her to such an even tone before the color, otherwise we would have had to mix as many formulas as we had different color pigments.
after allowing the color to process, we’re ready to wash.\
due to the fact that we’ve done a lot of processing to willow’s hair, the color has washed out to be a bit hollow. we’re going to recolor the hair at the sink to make sure that it’s rich in color.
we’re going to paint the color on at the sink like a toner and allow it to process fully before washing out.
the result? a BEAUTIFUL STRAWBERRY BLONDE
if you have any questions, ask us in the comments or message us directly @nvennhairbeauty :)
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