November 23, 2018
hello everyone! we are here today with jessica and our lovely client christi. her hair has grown out quite nicely since the last time she visited us.
it’s been a while since her last visit. about 8 months to be exact, but her hair still very well diffused from the last time we did it. unfortunately, the roots and the back of her hair has almost fully grown out.
today we will be doing a SHADOWED ROOT with a subtle pastel pink tint. the shadowed root will help her hair maintain its look longer between salon visits. we will use the same 4 quadrants method used in our video on how to do shadowed roots.
then we will be doing a PASTEL PINK on the rest! this will be done in a very different way.
jessica creates the shadowed root by placing the foils so that there is about an inch of DARK ROOTS.
PROTIP: turn the brush VERTICALLY and feather the color into the shafts of hair to create a diffused look.
to create the SHADOWED ROOT, jessica makes fairly THIN SECTIONS to completely blend out the large section of new growth. by making thin sections, jessica can create a more natural looking and diffused color transition.
jessica is incorporating alternating sections of FINE WEAVE every couple of sections to break up the color.
between every 3rd section on the sides, jessica is going to leave the hair NATURAL to further diffuse the transition.
PROTIP: by BACKCOMBING the hair before applying color you can diffuse your line of color even more. once you brush out the backcombing you can see just how well this works.
once jessica gets to the TOP SECTION, she wants to be sure there is even less dark up here. jessica will do BACK-TO-BACK SECTIONS on the top parts of each section. instead of letting half of the weave stay dark- she will be coloring in both sections..
be sure to get in as much of the baby hairs in the foils. those need to be lightened as well in order to avoid too much darkness around the face.
to complete the foiling sections, she will use back-to-back sectioning that alternates between regular weave sections
PRO TIP: when creating this look, be sure to visually assess each client and each section of the head differently. based on the amount of darkness they prefer you may need to adjust the thickness of the section and the foiling pattern.
here you can see the the foils are all applied. we are going to let this process and we will be back with the final steps.
the COLOR CHOICE
here is kristy’s hair WASHED and POWER DRIED.
you can see at the roots, it is a little YELLOW. normally we would pre-tone. however, this is the color formula we have decided to use.
here on our foil we SWATCH TESTED three different colors. we’ve chosen to use an igora royal pearlescense mixed with a color from the igora royal line.
in our bowl, we have mixed our colors and will leave it SIT for 20 minutes. this will let the ammonia in the color fully evaporate. igora royal is a permanent color line and has quite a bit of ammonia and the pearlescence line is a high lift, which means it has even more ammonia. allowing the color to oxidize in the bowl will help us to avoid bumping her base.
for this style we want about 2 INCHES of a darker pink shadowed root.
seeing where the yellow is will dictate a bit where jessica applies the color. the formula that jessica chose was 9.5-22 which will NEUTRALIZE all of this yellow.
jessica staggers the sections to create a staggered color transition.
jessica takes care to feather each section in so there are no HARSH LINES. she is also COMBING through the sections to ensure the hair strands are fully saturated with color.
jessica will continue this pattern around the whole head. because kristy’s hair is short, jessica will need to take into consideration how much of a dark shadowed root she wants to show through. we do not want the whole strand of the hair in the back to be one uniform color so the amount of dark pink might need to be adjusted to leave enough hair for the pastel pink ends.
here the color is ALL DONE. we will let this process for a bit for 20 mins and then do a FLASH TONE on her ends with the same formula.
PRO TIP : the processing time for the flash toner is determined visually. jessica will just watch how the hair processes and rinse it when it gets to its desired tone. usually she will leave the color on for 5-10 mins.
here is the hair with the is the TONER applied.
PRO TIP: to apply volume, start by power drying the hair. volume is designed to give a maximum amount of volume so it’s easier to work with when the hair is slightly damp. start applying the product at the crown of the head where the hair is most DENSE, working it in on both sides and then down through the nape and sides. POWER DRY it a bit more before you start working with a brush.
volume is designed to boost body. it's a little tacky in texture, but dries weightless and is great for adding texture.
to prevent against the damaging effects of heat styling tools, jessica will now mist the hair with nvenn ‘protect’. this coats the hair with a THERMAL BARRIER between the hair and the heat. this way the product will burn away and not her hair.
finally, jessica applies ‘replenish’ to the midstrands and ends of her hair. replenish is infused with argan oil, vitamin e, and avocado oil. it FILLS in all the cracks and crevices in the hair, giving it a SMOOTH and SHINY finish.
we are all done with the color process, and as you can see, the result is a beautiful FADED look with darkness at the root, and a PEARLY pink shine on the ends.
next, jessica is going to add some curls to give some lovely bounce and texture to the hair.
here is the color and style ALL DONE
for a CHEAT SHEET of the formulas or a more in-depth explanation on how to use a high lift color as toner you can find it here.
if you have any questions or comments you can leave a comment in the section below. be sure to like and subscribe @nvennhairbeauty and stay tuned for new updates.
that's it for this week, see you next friday! <3 xoxo
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